The Harbor Grill Dana Point Harbour · 1984–2022
A martini glass with olives and a salt-rimmed margarita on a restaurant bar top

Wines & Spirits

The drinks list was managing partner Keegan Hicks's project, and it was longer and more considered than the room strictly required. He chose for value, quality and diversity, and the list shows it — a serious wine programme sitting directly on top of thirteen flavoured martinis.

Archived menu. The Harbor Grill closed on 30 September 2022. Prices are those printed at the time. Brand names have been replaced with the style of spirit used.

How the list was organised

The card ran in fourteen sections: martinis, margaritas, signature cocktails, beers, whites by the glass, reds by the glass, half bottles, bubbles, vibrant whites, chardonnay, pinot noir, merlot, cabernet sauvignon and blends, and rousing reds. Splitting the whites into an aromatic "vibrant whites" section and a separate chardonnay section is a small tell — this was a list built for a seafood menu, where the aromatic whites do most of the work.

Martinis

Thirteen of them, which was the fashion of the era and, on a harbour terrace, entirely defensible. The two classics anchored the section and the other eleven went off in every direction.

The cucumber basil is the one that has aged best, and the basil almost certainly came from the restaurant's own herb bed a few steps from the bar.

Margaritas

The header on this section was a statement of principle: all our margaritas are made with our homemade sweet and sour. In 2012, on a tourist harbour, that was not a given.

The fat cadillac — a margarita with a beer float — is the most Southern Californian drink on the entire list.

Signature cocktails

The champagne strawberry cocktail crossed over to the Sunday Champagne Breakfast list at $11.00, one of the few drinks that ran at both ends of the day.

The wine list

The wine sections were organised by style rather than country, which suited a menu where the food changed hemisphere every third line. Whites were split between an aromatic group and chardonnay; reds ran pinot noir, merlot, cabernet sauvignon and blends, then a final heavier group. Half bottles and sparkling wines each had their own section, which is unusual on a list this size and useful for two people eating fish.

Regions named on the list — Napa Valley, Willamette Valley — are formal American Viticultural Areas, legally defined growing regions rather than marketing terms. The three wines the restaurant printed directly onto the oyster menu give the clearest picture of the house palate: high acid, little or no oak, and aromatics chosen to stand up to chilli and ginger as well as to raw shellfish.

Beers

A short list of Mexican, Belgian and American beers, priced from around $5.50. On a harbour, in the afternoon, this section probably outsold the martinis.